13 September 2011

Two Mediocre Sessions = Still Stoked

Session #1: Point break mat session. The tide came up quickly. By the time I got in the water, the spot was shutting down and the backwash wasn't doing the waves any favors. Score: One wave in about 45 minutes.

Session #2: Beach break surf session. There was too much SW in the water for this break, therefore it was closed out . . . as usual. Score: Two waves in about 30 minutes.

It was one of those cases where I was still glad to get wet since I had to be at work before the morning was up. The spots I chose just weren't working. And that's okay. I managed to surf two different surfcraft at two different breaks during a two hour period. I'd rather do that than stay dry.

Please join me in praying for well-shaped surf with a decent tide . . . amen.


At 9/14/11, 5:28 AM, Blogger Ramsnake said...

By the look of that 2nd shot that knee of yours is doing the job very nicely!

At 9/14/11, 5:58 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

The knee is fine, yes. I can't bend it like I can the right one. But, as you can see, I've figured out how to tuck it out of the way when I want to get low. I can't stay down there forever though. That position is a bit uncomfortable. But at least I can work my way into some kind of a crouch.

At 9/14/11, 3:32 PM, Blogger Travel / Surf Guy said...

Amen !!

Getting wet twice in one day is always a good thing - pleased you enjoyed it Sis.

At 9/15/11, 11:23 AM, Blogger Pre Preview said...

Totally stoked! "Attend the SOLD OUT World Premiere of Renowned Professional Surfer Keith Malloy's Debut Film, "Come Hell or High Water" in NYC September 17 with the Filmmakers and Subjects and Attend the After Party"



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