13 March 2011

You Know You're All Surfed Out When . . .

the post-surf 45 minute walk of the dog is torture. Normally, I do my workout and then walk the dog so that he gets a workout. We generally walk up hilly streets. It's rare that I consider our walks anything other than a break from my normal day. They're not workouts. They're just part of what I do each day (like the crunches I do each morning). Today? That walk just about did me in.

I think I surfed a little over two hours yesterday. Much to my surprise, the waves at RPB were working. I went back again today. I was under the impression that they'd turn on again. Well, initially they didn't. And I sat out there, wondering if I should have hit another spot. Then, they turned on in earnest. And they stayed on. I kept telling my friends that I had to get out, that my 80 year old mother must certainly be tired of an energetic 9-year-old. But the waves were just too consistent and too good. Each time I'd get a good one, I'd think of another reason to paddle back out. I can't end on that one since someone dropped in on me. I can't go in on that one because it wasn't a left. If I go in now, I'll kick myself for the rest of the week. I finally got to the point where I was getting cold. I got yet another good one and headed to the car.

Of course, once I was up there looking down at the break, I still wasn't ready to head home. The waves were finally showing some consistency, enough so that I couldn't take my eyes off them. Nope. I'm not going home now! The board was shoved into the car. Within a matter of minutes, I was back at the water blowing up my mat. About 30 minutes later, I emerged from the ocean with four mat waves under my belt. I'd spent close to four hours in the water today.

Apparently, people saw my car when they got there and noticed it was still there when they left. I received the following text:

Hey saw ur car at ss. U must have had a marathon session!

I only surf two days a week now. And I make it count!

Remember to be grateful for what you have. I have a home to go to. I have my health. I have my family intact. All of that could change at a moment's notice. Never forget that.

Stranded

Devastation

Homeless

3 Comments:

At 3/13/11, 9:55 PM, Anonymous Val said...

Thanks for the reminder that we must try to live each day as if it could be our last. (And for your post a couple days ago, calling out people who say stupid things.)

 
At 3/14/11, 6:02 PM, Blogger MF said...

It's something I think about every day....just being grateful for the simple things.

 
At 3/17/11, 1:43 AM, Anonymous Matt said...

Every day is a new life to a wise man.

 

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