07 March 2011

Where the Author Leaves the Board on the Car

We had summer on Saturday. Sunday? Well, my son referred to it as Christmas since it was windy, cold and overcast. When I got to the beach, folks were complaining about the conditions. It certainly didn't look like it did the day before.

What to do? Ride the mat. Period. That thing is a session saver. Had I not been spoiled by Saturday's shapely waves, I might have paddled out on Sunday, just happy to get wet. Unfortunately, I went to the beach on Sunday expecting the best . . . and not finding it. The winds were blowing onshore. The ocean was textured. The waves had questionable shape. And I had a 9'2" log with a big old D fin. I just wasn't feeling the idea of tackling that (pointing toward the ocean) on this (pointing to my beloved Almond log).

4GF Tracker Square Tail and Viper fins to the rescue!!

These days, riding the mat gets easier and easier. Where I once used to hang on for dear life, letting the mat take me where the waves dictated, I now easily direct the mat. It goes where I dictate. There were just enough shoulders out there to really get the mat up and running. There was also enough energy in the water to make this one of the hardest, in terms of taxing my body, and best mat sessions I've had. Ever.

The work week has begun in earnest. I've been here for six hours. They've given me all of about 10 minutes' worth of work today. There's something I want to write for TheInertia.com, but I think I'll wait to do that later in the week. I've got nothing on my plate for Liquid Salt right now either. I'm waiting for people to send back their interviews. Then I will begin my next set of interviews. I suppose that leaves me with watching videos. There are more than enough of those to keep me occupied for now.

Looking forward to the weekend . . . already.


At 3/8/11, 10:21 AM, Blogger Surfing Grandma of OC said...

LOL.. sounds like my day at work... I am studying for my state test and watching surf videos in between. There is currently NO work for me..I am beggining to wonder when this will pick up.
Suppose to be working on an article myself. BUT I just don't have it in me. I am dissapointed about what I did not get to do Saturday surfing..and it just keeps going over and over in my mind like a broken record and am just counting down the days till Fri. and Sun. My only two days off..so I can work on what I need to. Let's hope the surf cooperates. SO I too am looking forward to the weekend.. Also my poor house has seeen better housekeeping days. Because now that I am working more, "Hours" that is. I take any oppurtunity to get in the water..LOL

At 3/8/11, 10:37 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

You're not the only person who lives in that house, so you're not the only one who can clean it up. Surf always trumps domesticity. When I die, I won't be wishing I'd spent more time cleaning or cooking. I feel no guilt about surfing. It's one of the few things I do just for me. So you go surf and stop worrying about the house. Leave notes and tell the others what you need them to do there. In other words, delegate! And then go surfing!


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