Not Necessarily Stoned But . . . Beautiful

Have you ever been experienced? Well, I have.


This is not the look or demeanor of someone who's been skunked. It is me deep in thought after a mind-blowing session on the mat. I never even noticed that there was a camera trained in my direction.

Not necessarily stoned but . . . beautiful.

I think this is how Timothy Leary must have looked as he was coming down from his first acid trip. Lost in quiet contemplation. Thinking about what I'd just experienced.

For a time, I was the only one out. As luck would have it, my belief that catching the first wave I go for will result in a stellar session was once again proved correct.

Greenough rides a mat for a reason. Greenough gave up surfboards in every form because his mind was blown. I get it now.

My surfboard was near, but those empty waves told me to bring the mat.

The rest is a blur. Some of that blur is in slower motion. I remember looking right and watching the face open up. Skimming over kelp. Kicking as if my life depended on it. Having the mat ripped from my death grip. Being unafraid. Feeling myself change.

I was out there for 90 minutes. Then I got out, found the rocks I'd put aside for my collection and made the long walk back up the trail.

Almost 12 hours later, my mind is still blown. I think this may be permanent.