Fall(ing in Love with the Home Break All Over Again)
Oh, no, I didn't make it out. As a matter of fact, I never made it in. But look at the size of that wave. It's not massive. But do those look like flat conditions to you?
Today will be day five of my renewed appreciation for my home break. The place is never epic. rarely stellar and hardly ever good. But years of surfing there have taught me that fall is the time when you will probably see waves with shape at this break. Usually, fall brings heat and waves with shape. I will gladly accept the latter in this "one out of two ain't bad" equation.
Five straight days of surfing a beach break. I have yet to be disappointed with what I've found. There was one day when I paddled out and immediately cursed myself for that decision. There was so much glare that I couldn't see anything resembling a wave. In fact, there weren't any waves. It was dead flat. Flat flat. "Yo momma's so flat" flat. Then, out of the blue, the skies darkened—allowing the two or three of us in the water to finally see past 12 inches in front of us—and the small waves turned on. Smiles, everyone, smiles!!!
Yesterday, there were shoulder-high sets. (Double take!!!!)
I'm just about surfed out. I'll give it one more day before I take a break. Let the weekend warriors have their due. I've certainly had mine.