10 September 2010

Fall(ing in Love with the Home Break All Over Again)

Oh, no, I didn't make it out. As a matter of fact, I never made it in. But look at the size of that wave. It's not massive. But do those look like flat conditions to you?

Today will be day five of my renewed appreciation for my home break. The place is never epic. rarely stellar and hardly ever good. But years of surfing there have taught me that fall is the time when you will probably see waves with shape at this break. Usually, fall brings heat and waves with shape. I will gladly accept the latter in this "one out of two ain't bad" equation.

Five straight days of surfing a beach break. I have yet to be disappointed with what I've found. There was one day when I paddled out and immediately cursed myself for that decision. There was so much glare that I couldn't see anything resembling a wave. In fact, there weren't any waves. It was dead flat. Flat flat. "Yo momma's so flat" flat. Then, out of the blue, the skies darkened—allowing the two or three of us in the water to finally see past 12 inches in front of us—and the small waves turned on. Smiles, everyone, smiles!!!

Yesterday, there were shoulder-high sets. (Double take!!!!)

I'm just about surfed out. I'll give it one more day before I take a break. Let the weekend warriors have their due. I've certainly had mine.


At 9/10/10, 6:36 AM, Blogger P.O.P. Surfer said...

I challenge your statement-" the place is never epic, rarely stellar and hardly ever good."

While you were surfing your "other home break" and for years prior, it has been all those things...
Yes, it's usually crap....but sometimes it's what happens when everyones somewhere else. Next time you see Richard, ask him about the day he surfed with me and my brother..All you have to say to him is "the windy day." That day was surely epic. Next time you see SB, ask him about the December of 02,05,08..that was stellar. Oh yeah and the summer of 83, 88, and 94..for sure that was good.

Why do you think I keep coming back?

At 9/10/10, 11:40 AM, Blogger Surfsister said...

One of the reasons I said those thing was to throw people off a little (thereby keeping them from wanting to come to our home break). I do remember when the spot was consistently good for a long time. Now it isn't, but it's good enough most of the time. And there's no need for us to announce this fact to the world.

Dear Internet,
Our home break sucks—always has, always will. Don't go anywhere near it. Thank you and happy surfing (elsewhere).


At 9/10/10, 6:11 PM, Anonymous tg said...

braggart. It's been beyond horrible here.

but I am happy for you!

At 9/11/10, 4:55 PM, Blogger P.O.P. Surfer said...

Oh wait, you're right... IT SUCKS THERE.. ALWAYS, DON'T COME DOWN, DON'T BRING YOUR FRIENDS, IN FACT, LEAVE.. (I think I've always said that, haven't I )?
Statement above is not directed at "Surfsis."

At 9/12/10, 12:05 PM, Blogger gracefullee said...

Home break sux. I keep going back for the PEOPLE. Grumpy-ass freaks. :)

At 9/12/10, 2:52 PM, Blogger Ann said...

Hi! Congratulations on having a great website! May I know your name and email address Surfsis? I have some details to discuss with you.

Thank you.

Ann (annsmith0320@gmail.com)

At 9/12/10, 5:42 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

No congratulations are necessary, but thank you for the compliment. As for my email address, it's not hard to find, therefore I will not send it to you. My name is unimportant for the purposes of this blog, therefore I will not send that to you either (especially since I don't know you). Peace.


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