What's Not to Love About L.A.'s Most Famous Break?

I paddled out at L.A.'s most notable surf spot yesterday. There was no swell to speak of. There was hardly anyone there. Nevertheless, you still saw a lot of this:



WTF? I'm not going to fight for any wave that doesn't at least come up to my chest. I'm not dropping in. I'm not calling you off. I'm not doing any of the egregious stuff that makes surfers threaten to take it to the beach. Not for a wave like the one you see above.

My knee is improving little by little. I feel good enough to surf more than once a week, but I know I'll be sorry if I do. So I won't. Yet.