Gotta Hull Lotta Love!
I felt just fine this morning, fine enough to tackle any wave that came my way. What did I find? Little dribblers crumbling their way toward the shore. Why couldn't I have felt this good yesterday?
I took The Minx, my torpedo-like longboard hull, out for her maiden voyage this morning. As was suggested by the shaper, I took the first wave on my belly. That's where you get to see what a hull is capable of delivering once you learn to surf it well standing up. Someone on an SUP screamed to me that I looked like I was a rocket. (In the water? A rocket?) I understood what I was hearing. In other words, I was flying down the line. Much to my chagrin, that was probably my wave of the day. There wasn't enough to work with out there to really open the board up. Yesterday would have been a good day for that.
It's not hard to surf this board at all. I loved it. I've not yet found my sweet spot on it when standing. After riding the board prone, I know it's there.
Did I say something yesterday about being physically unable to surf every day until the surgery? Strike that. I'm feeling great. What's irritating is that there is some swell on the way and it looks like I won't be able to surf tomorrow. I do have a window of time later in the morning and early in the afternoon, but I think the winds might get on it before I can get out there. No matter. I'll surf as much as I can until I can surf no longer.