16 August 2008

Mixing It Up, Y'all

I never say "y'all". But since my husband, who's watching double sculls on TV as I type, just yelled, "You're getting spanked, y'all!" at the Americans, I decided to steal his language for my post.

When I paddled out at the home break today, I realized that I've surfed four different spots since last Saturday. San O. RPB. LPB. Home break. That's great for my surfing. It was not a week for getting settled in. Each wave is different. Hence my approach to each break is different.

The home break generally sucks in terms of wave quality. Today was no different. But I don't paddle out thinking about how bad it will be. Instead, I paddle out thinking about things I can work on given the waves I'm given to work with. Today, because of yesterday's session at LPB, was all about remaining completely relaxed on every ride. That was my focus. Stay relaxed, stay loose. That's easy to do at a place like San O. It's not always easy at a place with nasty closeouts. If you want to catch more than a two second ride on a day of riding closeouts, you have to relax. How did it go? Mission accomplished.


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