10 July 2008


The surf and the weather were mediocre at best—perfect for my first session back. The break was relatively empty. The fair-weather surfers all having stayed home out of protest, I guess. My opinion: if you're a true surfer, you'll surf anything . . . even the dreck that dribbles in on the worst of days. I'm not saying you should surf that shit every day. I'm just saying this isn't a beach movie. You surf what you're given.

I'm glad I missed the good swell and beautiful weather of a few weeks ago. I cannot deal with the mass of humanity that descends upon the beach with surfboards. Unlike so many others, I won't label them kooks. I hate that word. And they're not all kooks. Why wouldn't you be drawn to the ocean on a sunny day? I don't fault anyone for that. The fact that I can't deal with the crowds is my problem, not theirs. Besides, all of these people will be gone soon enough and our beaches will return to some semblance of normalcy. Go get your waves this summer, people.

One warning though: Don't drop in on me when I'm on the log. It weighs a good 30 pounds and I'm long past the stage of being polite enough to try to avoid people who snake me. It can take a hit and survive. Can you? (No, it's not a threat. It's simply food for thought for those surfers, and we all know who they are, who recklessly and intentionally drop in RIGHT IN FRONT OF YOU.)


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