Making the Best of a Small Situation
Once again, the leash was but a memory. There is just no need for one when the waves are that small. I maintained that belief even though I didn't surf alone today. I met CYT at the pier. It wasn't as crowded as it could be. Still, there were enough people there to make me more mindful about surfing without a leash. No, I'm not going to report that I clocked someone in the head with the board. In fact, there's nothing to report except that surfing leashless is great. It makes you vigilant; you're mindful about the safety of others and about the fact that losing the board means you're going swimming. I lost the board a few times. On one occasion, a nice guy on a shortboard who was onshore put down his board and fetched mine. Thanks, Good Samaritan!
I can't say I'm enjoying these small waves. I expect tiny in the summer, not in the fall. And I'm anxious to get back on my shorter board. I'm also curious about the Bonzer (which I've yet to take down to the beach for a photo shoot). I'm not going to complain much. At least I can go back and forth between the two (i.e. shorter board and longboard). I'm not wed to the shorter board like some people I know (who get pissed off when the waves are so small that nothing but a longboard will do). Whiff, I bet you didn't even think about paddling out over the last few days, did you? You know, it wouldn't kill you to add a longboard to your quiver. I'm just sayin'.
7 Comments:
It wasn't even longboardable down here the last couple of days. There were a few guys out, but I don't know why.
Lol I had some amazing stuff goin on.
Keep working on the leashless, you'll find that soon you'll never use one with a longboard, no matter the size.
Keep working on the baord switching too. Soon you wont even thnik about anything except choosing the right board for the condtions, and adjust to whatever your on right away.
Both are big steps of progression. Good job! Surf on!
I hate the transition back to leashing it. Inevitably....I hogtie myself while cross-stepping...
AND!....nice board. ;-)
I love leashless. It doesn't even phase me when there's a crowd anymore because, frankly, I see more people do stupid things with a leash than without.
The leash killed surfing. Well maybe not. I hate leashesand I avoid using one on my longboard as much as humanly possible. I'd say 80% of my longboard sessions are leashless. I think it keeps me on my toes (no pun intended) and steps up my game a bit. I don't want to fuck up and have to swim. Plus, it avoids kelp, and I never have to worry about creating drag or wrapping around my knees and making me fall.
No longboards for me. I tried AIBK's Tylers a couple of weeks ago (leashless, thank you) and thought I was going to kill somebody with them.
Seriously, I don't need one. There are few waves a longboard can catch that I can't catch on my retro fish. Those waves are, quite frankly, are not waves I'd even bother paddling out for anyways. You see, as an accomplished novice, I've learned...(haahahahahaahahaha!)
I surfed Sun/Mon there and had a blast. I checked Wednesday, but, went home due to the suckage. I'll most likely give it a peek tomorrow to see if this new swell is gracious and giving.
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