Good Enough

Finally!! Waves!!!

Today's session was good enough when one considers the conditions at the home break. There were shoulders, yes, but there were also a lot of closeouts. I managed to get worked more times than I liked. One wave held me down long enough to make me nervous. I couldn't tell which was was up and I couldn't even figure where the little bit of sunlight was coming from. I didn't get scared. I save pure fear for bigger waves. I wasn't about to drown or anything. I was simply out of sorts, doing the Maytag thing. I don't mind getting worked. It's a reminder that the ocean does what it wants when it wants. You're just visiting. Anyway, I took out the new performance longboard today. After all of my over-thinking, I ended up with the Na Papa. The manager of my surf shop talked to me about it (as had another one of the guys). He'd ridden one and liked it. He also explained, in no uncertain terms, that the Australians to want to take over the surf world so I shouldn't be put off by this company's preoccupation with sales. But, he said, it's a good board. It's not a pop-out. Then he reminded me (and this is the kicker) that I could bring it back if I didn't like it. See, this is how you get treated when you establish a good relationship with a shop. I can take it back and get my money back if I don't like it. Unbelievable. So I took the board out today. It was a good day for the board. What's my opinion? I love it. Responsive, fast, and loud (that is, the green and white checks). I was right when I pegged this as the type of design I would like. This board is great.

I do remember one wave. I'll remember it for awhile. I almost got covered up!!! I'd been taking rights the whole session. At some point, I finally got a left. It was so steep that I was forced to angle more than I like. (We all know I prefer to paddle toward the shore and then do a hard bottom turn once I've popped up.) Anyway, I angled into this wave and crouched. That's when I saw the height of the wave was over my head and it was beginning to fold over. I stayed with it for a few seconds, then I got tossed. But I saw the light. In other words, I get it now. I understand how getting covered up works. This is not to say that I'll get into a little barrel any time soon. But then again, maybe I will. Anyway, it was a fun session at the home break. The new board performed well. People either liked the checkerboard deck or hated it. There was no in-between. I actually like it (having been a rude girl/ska lover from the early 80's). Those checks bring back memories of The Specials, The Selecter, The English Beat, Madness, and other ska bands. This board looks like a keeper.