More Random Thoughts on Saturday's Session

Gracefullee was so diplomatic in her succinct description of the paddle out to the lineup at Old Man's. I won't be so diplomatic since I've surfed Old Man's before on a day when the ocean was angry. That's too damn far to paddle when you can just jump in at The Point and be at the lineup already.

Was it a 15 wave set? Huh. I thought it was only 14 waves. How do I know it was 14? I don't. But the birthday boy (i.e., the person whose birthday was being celebrated at San O) counted. Guess where I was during that set? On the inside, baby, being pummelled. Somehow, I survived. Being the dumb yet scrappy female that I am, once that set was over, I paddled back out to the lineup. And then I had to ask myself: why did I bother? There was nothing left. Waves came through. I didn't have the strength to catch them. What's worse is I also lacked the strength to paddle to and over the approaching set waves that followed. I finally did what I do best at Old Man's: I pointed my board toward the shore and bellied it in. I think we were into our third hour in the water by then. I was done.

I'd never been to San O on a weekend before. Nice people, but there were too many of them (us?) in the water. That made it hard to catch the waves we actually had a chance of riding. I was locked into one wave and about to pop up when a guy paddles across the front of me. I pulled out. He said he would have moved. I don't know about that. He was paddling in the direction ( LEFT, DAMMIT!) I wanted to surf. I'd rather pull out than run someone over.

If I weren't working, I'd surf San O twice a month . . . on any day other than Saturday and Sunday.