The Slump . . .

is over. After heeding everyone's admonitions about switching boards so much and also spending a little time on the Indo Board, I got in the water today ready to hit it. I went, first, to the home break, expecting to see something good (since it was still high tide). There was nothing good to see. The waves were once again closing out and doing so close to shore. I tried to wait for it to improve, but then it occurred to me that low tide was coming in a few hours. So how was it going to improve? Some of the folks from the crew were there. A few got in. A few left. I kept saying that I thought RPB would have waves. I was told over and over again that this was an impossibility, that RPB wouldn't be breaking. I finally decided I would check for myself. Suffice it to say, it only took me about five minutes to suit up once I was at RPB. There were waves to be had and I was going to surf as many of them as I could. Within 30 minutes of paddling out, I'd caught about five good rides. One of them was surprisingly long. It just kept going and going and going. When I paddled back out, a guy told me I made every section. It was sweet redemption. The only negative about the session was that the waves shut down after about 45 minutes, even though the tide was dropping. Yes it was warm out there (above the water). Still I was too cold to sit there waiting for waves and finally got out.

You know what? I truly believe my Slick is a magical board. I can't believe my good fortune in owning it. No matter what, I always feel centered and comfortable on that board. The guy who shaped this board is an elusive figure who seems to settle in one spot for awhile . . . and then move on. This board is amazing. I love it so much that I'm putting a huge picture of it on the blog. I figure I may never cross paths with a Chris Slick board again and I want to celebrate the one I have . . . and thank it for helping me out of the slump.