Who Wants to Buy a Surfboard?
How can someone with four surfboards surf so badly? Is the cosmos sending me some kind of message that I'm refusing to hear? (The message sounds something like this: "You suck! Get out of the water! Sell your boards! Give away your wetsuits! Stop telling people you can actually surf!") My surf-related malaise is so severe that I'm even having trouble on the Tyler. How can that be? That board was made for me and I can usually dial into it after a few waves. That wasn't the case today. I spent most of the session watching waves roll from underneath me. I could not, for the life of me, find the sweet spot on that board, the board I adore! I'd catch waves, stall at the top of them, and watch them go. WTF?!? I know I got one good ride. One! ONE! I was at RPB. It wasn't firing, but the waves were definitely rolling through nicely. The shape left a little to be desired. Nonetheless, I caught at least 15 waves today. Still, only a couple of them were good. Once again, I was off. Something didn't feel right and it showed. I could not find trim on more than a couple of them. It was, to say the least, distressing.
Whiff!!! Are you listening? You're the only one who can rescue me from this slump. And, conversely, I'm the only one who can rescue you from your slump. What does that mean? Well, haven't you noticed that you and I tend to have bad sessions at the same time? Haven't I said you're my doppelganger? We all know it's true. The fact that you're white and I'm black, that you're male and I'm female is of little consequence. How can we change our shared surfing fortunes if we both continue to personify "mediocre"? It's time for one of us (okay, you) to step up—er, paddle out—and just kill it. I'd volunteer to do it but I can't even get my log to catch a decent wave. You're our only hope. Do you accept this mission? (And watch, once he starts having good sessions, I will too.)
posted by Surfsister @ 22:16
3 comments
3 Comments:
I think you are trying too hard to re-create a ride you already had. If it isn't working, try something new for a while.
I'm working on it, Sis. In the meantime, quit switching boards so much, quit switching breaks so much and concentrate on one of each. You can't expect to go from a 7'0 at a beach break to a log at a mushy point break without some sort of re-learning curve. You're setting yourself up for frustration.
And, Anon #1, emoticon or not, you've finally convinced me to make a policy change on my blog. C'ya.
I agree with Whiffleboy about changing breaks and boards and that re-learning curve.
I've discovered lately that I'm loving Doc more than any other board in my posession. Cooperfish has been out of the water for 3 months and we're having relationship issues -- partly because of the mushy waves I took him for a spin in, and partly because I have to re-learn how to surf a giant board with some kind of finesse. (The shorterboards I've been on require very little finesse to turn -- even all 9'0" of Doc falls in this category because he's got so little volume and so much rocker.)
Post a Comment
<< Home