BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF
(Did I stutter?)
25 November 2011
24 November 2011
21 November 2011
Amendment I
Congress shall make no law respecting an establishment of religion, or prohibiting the free exercise thereof; or abridging the freedom of speech, or of the press; or the right of the people peaceably to assemble, and to petition the Government for a redress of grievances.
20 November 2011
16 November 2011
If I Coveted Money as Much as I Dodge Barrels, I'd be a Rich Woman
In other news, I ask this question: Why is it that everyone wants to talk about the stoke from surfing, but no one wants to talk about the stoke killers? I continue to posit the theory that we surfers happily turn a blind eye to the elephant in the room—polluted water. You bring up that topic, wait for a response and the reply is silence. But guess what? I'm not going to stop talking about it. I'm not going to throw my hands up, glad that I can enjoy the ocean before it's too late. Is that what you're doing? Shame.on.you. I talk about polluted water a bit here.
09 November 2011
08 November 2011
On Greenough's Birthday, You Ride Your Mat!
The home break closeouts are actually quite enjoyable on a mat. My 4GF 5GF worked quite nicely, helping me to get on the shoulders before they folded over on themselves.
George Greenough is 70 years old.
And he still rides a mat.
Therefore, he's still in the ocean at a time when he probably would have had to stop surfing a standard surfboard—not that Greenough spent much time on a surfboard. But I'd bet it would have been hard to ride a spoon at 70 too.
The mat doesn't discriminate based on age. The mat, in fact, doesn't discriminate at all. If you don't already have one in your quiver, shame on you.
In mats we trust.
06 November 2011
2011 Girls Combi Pool Classic at Vans Pt. 1
I'm there under the Rockstar Energy poster. Do you see me?
Those chicks ripped the roof off the Vans skatepark all day long!!
My mind was blown once I saw the women practicing. But once the pro finals got under way, oh.my.god!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I'd never seen women throw it down that hard for that long.
Consider me a proud Auntie!! There were a bunch of us there—women who skated as kids and then seriously returned to it after having their own kids. Some of the crew, in fact, didn't start skating until they were grown. But we all skate. One of our crew was even in the contest!! (Go, Mom!!!)
Chicks rip!! Watch and learn!
03 November 2011
01 November 2011
"But having said that when some crazy tweeker is up in my grill that sucka's goin down"
Prana said that. So I stole it.
He said that in response to the piece I just wrote for Josh's site.
There was an incident at the home break this weekend. You've seen the show Bully Beatdown? I find that show somewhat interesting in a good-triumphs-over-evil way, but it ultimately leaves me shaking my head even further about how horrible television is these days.
Wait? What was I talking about? Digression is a horrible thing!
The bully, if you want to call him that, took a beating. I don't enjoy violence for violence's sake. Most of the time, I think people should leave each other the fuck alone. (Yes, I actually have to use the f-word when I'm stating my opinion about how humans should interact with one another.) However, in cases where people seem unable to mind their manners, so to speak, a good ass kicking is sometimes in order.
I'm not a staunch believer in turning the other cheek. There are times when you can't be Gandhi. And since none of us is leading a nation of millions out of colonialism, most of us aren't trying to lead by example when faced with a situation that is going to turn violent. I don't want to see people fight. I don't like to see people fight. The only thing for which I'll throw down, at this point in my life, is my child.
But if you're attacked or see someone else being attacked, you act. Don't just stand there if you know you can help (even if that means running away to call the police or something). Don't just stand there!
The crew didn't just stand there. They delivered a bully beatdown on a tweaker who, having already crossed more than one line in the sand (and I'm being figurative, not literal), became a danger. He deserved it. And I think he got off easy. He was allowed to walk away. Granted, the police came and arrested him, but he is lucky he still had most of his health.
Localism is not always a four-letter word.