Proof That I Still Surf Boards
I've been matting a lot of late. But I've gotten on my board too. Now that summer is upon us and the lineups in L.A. are so bloody crowded, I've been forced to beat a hasty retreat to spots I don't normally frequent. These spots, as it turns out, have some damn good waves. And when I'm presented with a damn good wave, particularly if it's a right (cos Lord knows this goofy foot lives for going left), I think of my mat first. Mats are great fun. That, of course, is the thing that keeps you on the mat. However, when you get the mat on a wave with a decent shoulder, mats turn into serious, mind-blowing business. You needn't take my word for it. Other mat riders know. George Greenough knows. There's no law that says everyone in the water must know . . . that . . . one's relationship to the wave, to the very ocean itself, is more intimate on a mat.
With that said, I still surf. My most recent sessions have been ones that saw me hike into a spot, with my fellow matter/surfer TT, with fins, a mat and a board. In those cases, my sessions were split between the mat and the board. Alas, I've yet to see a good left during these sessions. Point breaks that go right seem to be the theme for the summer of 2011.
There's a mat meet tomorrow. I will take a board. And I probably won't surf it. Unless. I see a good left. A really good left. A really good almost empty left. Yeah. Summertime. Weekend. Not.gonna.happen.