25 November 2008

Have You Kissed Your Surfboard Lately?

Was it last year that my Bonzer, which was shaped by Clayfin and glassed by Moonlight, was giving me a fit? With all of the preoccupation of late with health issues and (lack of) work issues, I forgot to post my newest Bonzer impressions.

This thing is so tasty that if it were a man I'd be giving serious thought to cheating on Soul Brother #1. I'm not sure where my head was when I first got it. I didn't know what to think. I wasn't sure what wave to surf. I wasn't sure of my own surfing. I've had a lot of time in the water since then and I've also been surfing shorter boards. That's helped both my actual surfing and my confidence.

This year, when we finally got a little NW swell, I took it out at the home break. My expectations were neither low nor high. I think, for the first time, I was simply open to the experience of surfing my Bonzer speed egg. Winner, winner, chicken dinner!!!!!!! Fast as a mutha! Turns on a dime! For the first time in my life as a surfer—and remember, I was holding fast to my longboards until a few months ago—I hit the lip and then continued on with the ride. I did this on more than one wave!

Alas, it's not an every day board. This Bonzer needs some juice and some shoulder to really enjoy itself. This is the board, I think, that will see me through the winter swells at my favorite point breaks. Sometimes, you just don't want to be on a longboard. (If you've read my blog from its inception, you'll know how astonishing a statement that is.)

Surgery update: The doctor said the surgery went well, that the nerve bundles looked good. What does that mean? Well, it means the prostate didn't appear to be riddled with cancer and that, um . . . hmmm . . . use of a particular body part for a particular thing was not completely compromised.

We won't know the full extent of the outcome until we get the pathology report in about a week. Soul Brother #1, who hates doctors and hospitals, came through it like a trooper, a trooper who hates doctors and hospitals. We're hoping he can come home today. The doctor hinted that he might be able to if he's feeling up to it. Thanks for all of the kind thoughts, offers of food and support. It has helped more than all of you know.

7 Comments:

At 11/25/08, 10:55 AM, Blogger dgm said...

"Winner, winner, chicken dinner!" I must incorporate that term into my life.

One of my friends let me borrow one of his boards, and now I must have it. I believe it was meant for me.

 
At 11/25/08, 2:49 PM, Blogger Whiffleboy said...

Yay! SB1's gonna be alright. I can feel it (that's what she said).

Thank God my bonzer is fish-like. I took it out this morning hoping for some early juice. Suited up without even looking and was highly disappointed in what I found. I had to work my ass off to get it going. :-)

 
At 11/25/08, 6:50 PM, Blogger Jamie Watson said...

Wow, great post about the surgery and surfing. Happy Thanksgiving to you guys!!

 
At 11/25/08, 7:46 PM, Blogger Bill said...

count em up, those good things, count em up every day.

surf on...

 
At 11/25/08, 9:49 PM, Blogger J.P. St. Pierre said...

Surf deep, live cheap!

 
At 11/28/08, 7:49 AM, Blogger gracefullee said...

I'm back in L.A. tonight. Let me know if you want a Sunday dinner!

 
At 12/1/08, 11:39 AM, Blogger clayfin said...

that is certainly good news and I'm not just talking about the board!

 

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