17 December 2007

It's Just Me, Myself and I

That's how it felt out there today. I loved every minute of it. It was hard to believe I was still in Los Angeles. From the sand, the waves looked more ferocious than they were. Nevertheless, I could tell it was a longboard day. I've gotten to the point now where I dread wearing a leash. I quickly thought and then unthought about wearing one. I decided I'd be more judicious in my wave choice if the waves were packing a punch.

Once I paddled out, I found out the conditions weren't at all difficult. The waves had size for a few seconds. Then they'd slowly roll by and lose that size in the process. When I'd pop-up, I'd find that there was nothing there. I nonetheless enjoyed myself. There were waves to ride. If you wanted them, you had to work for them. That's never a problem. You'll get a better workout that way.

I only swam once. I lost the board more than once, but somehow managed to keep it from disappearing with the whitewater. It's not like I was doing beautiful kick-outs or anything. I think I was simply bailing before the lip launch the board toward the shore. I had one spectacular crash and burn moment where I was unable to take both me and the board up and over the wave at the end of a ride. Instead, I saw the lip bearing down on us and decided it was time to make use of my ejection seat. I flew through the air up and over the wave. When I popped back up, I saw my board spinning in the air. What a glorious sight, especially since it landed near me, thus preventing the need for a swim to the shore.

At least I got a session in before the rain. I don't know where everyone else was. Scared of the cold? Thought it was flat? I really don't care. I was enjoying my space.


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