11 February 2007

"You Thought Wrong"

That's what I was telling myself as I stood in the parking lot at LPB on Saturday morning. There was some swell in the water, just not enough. In fact, the one guy who was in the water was going right. Huh? Isn't this a left point break? The other guy in the parking lot told me the place had been breaking right for the last few days. I made a one hour drive for that? Suffice it to say I was a little disappointed. I'd gotten myself up early and I thought I knew what would happen. There was some swell in the water, right? The tide would be at its lowest later in the morning. The way I saw it, the early morning would only show some of the swell, probably enough for a longboard but not enough for a shortboard since the place breaks best on the lowest possible tide. I was confident I'd get a couple of good hours there in the water.

After a 20 minute wait, I headed back down PCH to RPB. Malibu was breaking. Again, that place is never my first choice. The dirty water and the crowd are enough to make me drive right by. Predictably, I ended up at RPB. Can a sister just go left? When RPB is crowded, people go right even when a left pops up? Yesterday, I finally got a left, went left and then had to straighten out because the guy to my left was going right.

The session was okay, nothing exciting or worth mentioning. I saw someone there with whom I am no longer friendly. We were civil to one another, but did not surf much within the vicinity of one another. The friendship ended a few months ago. People assumed we'd get over the hard feelings. I did. She did not. I'd say more about it, but that's probably not a good idea in such a public place since I believe both of us were wrong. C'est la vie.


At 2/14/07, 12:56 PM, Blogger Paula the Surf Mom said...

And that's what I love about surfing in NC....no crowds


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