Laughing at the Naysayers

Before I'd even pulled into the lot at the home break, one of the guys drove past me in the opposite direction, giving me the thumbs down sign out the window. I stopped briefly to talk to him. He said there were no waves. Well, I've got to see that for myself. Once in the lot, I ran into two more folks from the crew. They came back saying there was nothing there. Hmmmm, nothing at all? So I took a look. I saw waves. No, they weren't big waves. I don't require a big wave. I just need a wave with enough push to get the board going. I suited up. Another person was going to join me right then . . . until she realized she'd left her wetsuit at home. Okay, I'll go it alone. I was alone for about 10 minutes. Then another member of the crew came out. Seems he and I had the same idea: nobody out means the leash stays in the car. About 20 minutes later, we were joined by the third person, nice and warm in the wetsuit she ran home to retrieve. The session was great. The set waves had some juice. The small waves had shape. It was sunny. There were only three people out. I've got no reason to complain about this session. I also got a good workout in. (Yes, I did a bit of swimming.) I lasted for about an hour and a half before calling it quits. My hands were frozen. I think the recent winds made the water colder. I can tell my muscles are regaining their surfing fitness; paddling is getting easier. It probably doesn't hurt that I've stopped wearing the fleece rashguard under my 3/2. Now I've got enough range of motion in my shoulders, without the rashguard, to paddle harder and faster.

I consider today my "All About Surfing Day". I surfed and then hit up my favorite shop to see, first, if they had any Chris Slick boards, and, second, to see if the prices were frighteningly high as a result of the foam situation. I saw two Slicks, one of which looked like mine but was a little different. The guy manning the shop didn't believe me when I pointed out that their 9'1" Slick had a slight diamond tail while mine did not. I ended up taking my board into the shop so we could compare the two. Our conversation culminated in him putting out a call to Slick, who he wasn't able to reach. But now we're both curious to see what else Slick's got. When Slick delivers his next few boards, they're going to call me. I want to see what other models he makes or perhaps check out a longer one.

As if that weren't enough of an "All About Surfing Day," my husband comes home with Mark Brog's card. Soul Brother #1 was somewhere industrial and saw a guy putting a board in a van. SB #1 then shocked the guy by asking, "Are you a shaper?" Why was this so shocking? Well, most black folks couldn't care less about anything dealing with a surfboard. Most people, upon seeing someone with a board, will ask if that person surfs. What black man asks a guy with a board if he's a shaper? Apparently, Brog was happily surprised by that question. Upon hearing I'd been to Just Longboards to see about a Chris Slick, Brog gave SB #1 his card, telling him to tell me that he (Brog) will shape me a board. My goodness! I was just looking! Now I've got two shapers wanting my business. What's up with that?