BLACK PEOPLE DON'T SURF
(Did I stutter?)
31 May 2013
28 May 2013
The Beauty of the Surf Mat
My point, actually, is that there are times when the surf mat is the best weapon for the task at hand.
Today's wicked windswell waves had me shaking my fist at the ocean each time I got stuck inside. Duckdive after duckdive after duckdive. And so on and so on and so on. I'd just about get to the outside . . . when a good set would come and push me back to "Jail" (i.e., the impact zone). I didn't pass go. I didn't get my $200!
With that said, it was an excellent session on the mat. The waves were pitching rather nicely on the outside, thus I didn't have to work hard to catch them. (I only had to work hard to get back to them after each ride.) Once in the wave, the faces opened up slowly and rather perfectly even though the shape was on the funky side. I mean, we are talking about windswell.
I really need to get batteries put in my surfing watches. I keep two of them in the car. The second one died today. I paddled out thinking I could easily keep track of the time on my own. Wrong!! Time slows way down when I'm in the water. I'll think I've only been in for 45 minutes, only to find out I'd gotten in two hours earlier! This wouldn't be a problem if I didn't have to be at work after my sessions.
Fourth Gear Flyer Omni—best mat ever!!!
27 May 2013
14 May 2013
Mighty Mama Skate-O-Rama
13 May 2013
Jim Denevan Again!
11 May 2013
06 May 2013
I Left My Heart in San . . . a Town Further Up the Coast
You've got to love a town with a decent surf statute. After seeing all that's done about and to the Cardiff Kook, it was nice to see such a bad ass work of art related to surfing. I was even told that if I got up close enough, I could see up that dude's shorts. (Yeah, like there was anything to see!)
We went into a liquor store at one point. This cup was sitting right in front of the cash register. I didn't even ask about it. I simply smiled and made sure to take a picture.
I wanted to do an extended blog post about this, my first bona fide, surf trip. Unfortunately, I completely forgot to take my camera. I got on the road at 4:30 a.m. About seven hours later, I arrived at my destination. I'd been told to be there by noon. Low tide was at noon; the waves would be best then. I pulled into the parking lot around 11:30. I think we finally paddled out at 12:30.
It was the best surf trip ever! Granted, it was my first surf trip, but I don't think any trip could get much better than this one. My only regret is that I didn't get a chance to meet Steiny face-to-face.