06 May 2011

Spring? I'm Over It!

On more than one occasion today, I turned to my friend and said, "We need a good swell." We really do, you know. The waves of spring leave so much to be desired. Even though I'll happily surf almost anything, I'm not afraid to admit that my patience is wearing thin.

But such is the life of a surfer in Southern California during the spring. The virtue of patience, one which many of us exhibit daily at this time of the year, will surely help us all get into heaven. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.

I've not got much to say. I haven't much felt like blogging even though there are things I could talk about. For instance, the regulator at our break has decided I should be on a shortboard. The fact that I'm 47 years old with a knee that won't bend quickly and a body weight that would almost classify me in the Clydesdale class in a long distance footrace has not dissuaded him of this belief. Yes, I am, if nothing else, powerful . . . for a girl. My shoulders and arms are proof of that. My legs, which could never squeeze into a bona fide pair of "skinny" jeans, were the source of the majority of my power when I was younger. I've never been one to use a lot of finesse since I could normally get a physical task done with the female equivalent of brute strength. I do not believe, however, that this means I should be on a shortboard. I'm happy to ride my longboards and mid-length boards. I've got nothing to prove. In other words, just because I might be physically able to ride a shortboard doesn't mean that I want to do so or should do so.

We need a good swell. And sunshine. And relatively empty lineups. And a few lefts for yours truly.

4 Comments:

At 5/6/11, 9:56 PM, Anonymous Val said...

Actually there have been some fun waves here and there when the conditions have been glassy. I just wish that pesky Catalina Eddie would take a hike!

 
At 5/7/11, 9:09 AM, Blogger pabs said...

Sounds like that "regulator" is jealous of your longboard riding skillz and wants to get you onto something smaller so you won't be able to steal all the waves from him. :-)

 
At 5/7/11, 2:15 PM, Blogger Surfsister said...

When he's around, I won't take a wave until he's gotten one and is on the inside paddling back out. Even though he's become a friend, he's still the regulator and I ain't crossing him in this life . . . at least not while we're out in the water.

I understand what he sees when I surf, but the reality is that I'm at an age where ripping doesn't interest me. When I was young, I would have torn up a wave on a shortboard. Now? It's not something I aspire to do. Period.

 
At 5/7/11, 9:15 PM, Blogger goofykook said...

I, too, would some lefts. Come in, Souhern Hemisphere.

 

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