Spring? I'm Over It!
On more than one occasion today, I turned to my friend and said, "We need a good swell." We really do, you know. The waves of spring leave so much to be desired. Even though I'll happily surf almost anything, I'm not afraid to admit that my patience is wearing thin.
But such is the life of a surfer in Southern California during the spring. The virtue of patience, one which many of us exhibit daily at this time of the year, will surely help us all get into heaven. At least that's my story, and I'm sticking to it.
I've not got much to say. I haven't much felt like blogging even though there are things I could talk about. For instance, the regulator at our break has decided I should be on a shortboard. The fact that I'm 47 years old with a knee that won't bend quickly and a body weight that would almost classify me in the Clydesdale class in a long distance footrace has not dissuaded him of this belief. Yes, I am, if nothing else, powerful . . . for a girl. My shoulders and arms are proof of that. My legs, which could never squeeze into a bona fide pair of "skinny" jeans, were the source of the majority of my power when I was younger. I've never been one to use a lot of finesse since I could normally get a physical task done with the female equivalent of brute strength. I do not believe, however, that this means I should be on a shortboard. I'm happy to ride my longboards and mid-length boards. I've got nothing to prove. In other words, just because I might be physically able to ride a shortboard doesn't mean that I want to do so or should do so.
We need a good swell. And sunshine. And relatively empty lineups. And a few lefts for yours truly.