01 September 2009

I Still Rip!!



It was small and strange today, alternating between glassy and Victory at Sea, offshore and side shore. It was a day to fool around with a surfboard. I don't know that you could call what we were doing actual surfing.

I swam a lot. Since the bend in my knee is limited, I don't even try to hang onto the board once the ride is over. At Malibu, yes. At the home break, no. As usual, the bumps masquerading as waves would show a little shoulder before turning into mushy little closeouts.

I still find this kind of session fun. Water is water. A wave, even a small one, is still a wave if you can stand up and ride it on a surfboard.


At 9/1/09, 6:21 PM, Blogger KL said...

its amazing and exciting to see you up and working so fast. knee injuries are not an easy one to recover from... keep up the good work surfsister mary :)

At 9/1/09, 7:50 PM, Blogger Retro hack said...

Ur doing the Bird!
What I surfed was worse today, like Florida in mid summer but without the warmth, chicks and rednecks-maybe a few rednecks.
But its our season up here soon...

At 9/2/09, 7:54 AM, Blogger Surfing Grandma of OC said...

Your second pix...is what I look like ;-)!
You look great, knee and all!

At 9/3/09, 8:44 PM, Blogger SlowPolk said...

looking good

At 9/5/09, 2:20 AM, Anonymous Jan said...

As an Aussie surfing Grandma I have been following your blog for a while and really enjoy it. Congrats on a great recovery from your knee surgery - you look like you are doing great!


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