I Still Rip!!

BEFORE

AFTER

It was small and strange today, alternating between glassy and Victory at Sea, offshore and side shore. It was a day to fool around with a surfboard. I don't know that you could call what we were doing actual surfing.

I swam a lot. Since the bend in my knee is limited, I don't even try to hang onto the board once the ride is over. At Malibu, yes. At the home break, no. As usual, the bumps masquerading as waves would show a little shoulder before turning into mushy little closeouts.

I still find this kind of session fun. Water is water. A wave, even a small one, is still a wave if you can stand up and ride it on a surfboard.