09 February 2005

Five Reasons to Hate Today's San Onofre Session

1. I dropped my board while trying to get back to the shore after the tide turned low.

2. The wind blew the waves out and made it hard to paddle for waves.

3. Again, I dropped my board while trying to cross those fucking rocks while going back to shore.

4. First the waves were weak, then they got some juice, but by that time I was totally confused, cold, and having a hard time reading the waves.


See this picture? See those rocks? When we paddled out three hours earlier, they weren't there. Okay, they were there, But they were still in the water. When I caught my last wave and decided to get out, I knew I was in trouble. I don't wear booties; I don't like them. I don't like rocks either. Enough said? I was almost to the sand when I lost my footing. All I heard was the "clunk". Then, the whole beach heard the fury that came spilling from my mouth. I guess I'll be doing another ding repair session tomorrow morning with the Solarez.

I went to San O hoping it would end up being a cherished experience (since it was my first time there), one in which I showed myself what this board and I could really do (i.e., noseride, turn on a dime, find perfect trim, etc.). Well, I did manage to pearl a couple of times. I paddled for, and missed, a lot of waves. Thankfully, as I was telling myself that "you suck worse than whiffleboy" I realized that other people weren't catching waves either. Granted, I caught my share of waves. I was satisfied with the session. But now I want revenge. San O got the best of me today. I want to be beside myself, wallowing in self-pity, but I can't. A couple of locals told us we'd caught San O on a bad day. That provides a little bit of solace.

Let's see, I've dinged my board at the following beaches: Malibu, Topanga, San Onofre, and Santa Monica. The ding at the last beach happened when I swung the board around while standing too close to my car. Pretty smart, huh?


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